grub vs. grub

For GreaseFreak, the tastiest meal in Chicago for under $2 is a taco de barbacoa. It's deliciouly simple: steamed beef served on a pair of corn tortillas with onions and cilantro. It's a little different than what they serve in Mexico, where barbacoa apparently involves smoked meat from a cow's head. As enticing as that sounds, there's no denying the local version's appeal. Shreds of meat swim in a tangey beef broth and, thanks to a high quantity of steamed fat, each bite literally melts in your mouth. Prepared correctly, it's the closest thing to meat pudding that you're likely to find.

Perhaps the densest concentration of taquerias in Chicago that serve barbacoa is along a six-block stretch of Ashland Avenue in East Village. Hit them individually or collectively, repeatedly, year after year, and your stomach will start to feel like mine (That's a good thing). Here's how they stack up.

Carniceria Leon, 1402 N. Ashland TASTE: PRESENTATION: AMBIENCE: This unassuming supermarket offers all the beefy barbacoa attributes my gullet craves but the meat's a tad leaner, and tougher, than what's available down the street.	Traspasada, 811 N. Ashland Ave. TASTE: PRESENTATION: AMBIENCE: The sweet and succulent tacos here frequently come with a free bowl of soup, making for one of the most pleasurable meals one could have for under $2.	Carniceria Laura, 1053 N. Ashland TASTE: PRESENTATION: AMBIENCE: The flavor is weak, the meat is tough, and I almost broke a tooth on my last visit. I can't forgive bones in my meat pudding. Stick to the chicken taco.
La Pasadita, 1132 N. Ashland Ave. TASTE: PRESENTATION: AMBIENCE: Unlike the other La Pasaditas on Ashland, this one serves sides and chips. It also offers a bombasticly delicious black sauce in addition to the famed La Pasadita green sauce.	La Pasadita, 1140 N. Ashland Ave. TASTE: PRESENTATION: AMBIENCE: Like its sister establishments across the street and next door, the barbacoa here is as good as it gets: moist, fatty and delicious. Again, the green sauce can't be beat.	La Pasadita, 1141 N. Ashland Ave. TASTE: PRESENTATION: AMBIENCE: The smallest of the three La Pasaditas, the mighty barbacoa taco served here is just as tastey as the ones served by its siblings. Did I mention the green sauce?
De Pasada, 1108 N. Ashland Ave. TASTE: PRESENTATION: AMBIENCE: Not affiliated with La Pasadita, De Pasada's barbacoa is similiarly savory and spicy and, thanks to the cozy atmosphere, makes for a quaintly carnivorous dining experience.