`grub vs. grub`

Meatball brawl: Hand- to hand-formed culinary combat

The next couple of decades saw the Doobies re-unite countless times and my meatball cravings increase exponentially, albeit with caution due to the wide range of serving styles. While they generally involve a beef and pork mixture, meatball sandwiches may come with two to as many as six balls. In Chicago they often include condiments like giardinara or sweet or hot peppers. Then there are the panini-style meatball sandwiches that are usually served with sliced balls on a closed bun. They typically include cheese, sometimes without the red sauce that is standard on the open-faced versions.

I prefer a pair of meatballs -- which makes the sandwich easy to cut in half -- served on an open, crunchy baguette, without cheese or other extras save for a marinara sauce and sprinkle of Parmesan. Obscuring their flavor with condiments, and their form with bread, just spoils the meatball magic. On with the show.

Pizano's, 61 E. Madison St.
TASTE:
PRESENTATION:
AMBIENCE:
On my last visit the sandwich came with three grey balls of meat drowning in a marinara that reeked of garlic. Add the 30-minute wait and the cold fries and, well, next time I'll stick with Pizano's pizza.


Salerno's, 3250 S. Grove, Berwyn
TASTE:
PRESENTATION:
AMBIENCE:
Salerno's meatballs are big, beefy, and appropriately soft for picking up and eating by hand. Full of flavor and lathered in an inspired marinara sauce, these balls are textbook perfect.


Tufano's, 1073 W. Vernon Park
TASTE:
PRESENTATION:
AMBIENCE:
Hard as baseballs and nearly flavorless, Tufano's balls are inedible without a fork and salt. The mostaccioli could be a nice distraction from the main event but it's equally bland.


La Cantina, 71 W. Monroe
TASTE:
PRESENTATION:
AMBIENCE:
Served with a delicious meatsauce, La Cantina's balls are crumbly but tastey. Still, I wish they arrived more like orbs than mounds of meat.


Gigio's, 4643 N. Broadway
TASTE:
PRESENTATION:
AMBIENCE:
There's no love in these balls. In fact, they look like they're getting a divorce. Gigio's sign claims to have the city's best meatballs but, again, I'll stick with the pizza.


Bombacigno's, 558 W. Van Buren
TASTE:
PRESENTATION:
AMBIENCE:
Bombacigno's balls are tender, tastey and easy to eat. Served with a great marinara, there's no need for the sweet pepper I accidentally requested as a topping.


Fontano's, 20 E. Jackson St.
TASTE:
PRESENTATION:
AMBIENCE:
On my last visit the meatballs arrived at room temperature, rendering them almost tasteless. Thank goodness I pocketed the salt shaker from Tufano's.


Club Lago, 331 W. Superior St.
TASTE:
PRESENTATION:
AMBIENCE:
A panini-style sandwich that tastes great but lacks visual appeal. The side salad is a nice touch but I'd rather Lago emphasized the meat as much as the palette cleanser.

Haray Caray's, 33 W. Kinzie St.
TASTE:
PRESENTATION:
AMBIENCE:
Another cheesey, panini-style sub with sliced balls that I would rather avoid. I have no idea why the chef thinks pickles and meatballs go together.

The Winner

It's a close call but Salerno's wins this ball game with a pair of perfectly shaped and delicious orbs of meat. Throw in the upscale but comfortable ambience and the reasonable prices and it's just another reason to get your game on in Berwyn.

greasefreak menu grub vs. grub menu

Pizano's, 61 E. Madison St. TASTE: PRESENTATION: AMBIENCE: On my last visit the sandwich came with three grey balls of meat drowning in a marinara that reeked of garlic. Add the 30-minute wait and the cold fries and, well, next time I'll stick with Pizano's pizza.	Salerno's, 3250 S. Grove, Berwyn TASTE: PRESENTATION: AMBIENCE: Salerno's meatballs are big, beefy, and appropriately soft for picking up and eating by hand. Full of flavor and lathered in an inspired marinara sauce, these balls are textbook perfect.	Tufano's, 1073 W. Vernon Park TASTE: PRESENTATION: AMBIENCE: Hard as baseballs and nearly flavorless, Tufano's balls are inedible without a fork and salt. The mostaccioli could be a nice distraction from the main event but it's equally bland.
La Cantina, 71 W. Monroe TASTE: PRESENTATION: AMBIENCE: Served with a delicious meatsauce, La Cantina's balls are crumbly but tastey. Still, I wish they arrived more like orbs than mounds of meat.	Gigio's, 4643 N. Broadway TASTE: PRESENTATION: AMBIENCE: There's no love in these balls. In fact, they look like they're getting a divorce. Gigio's sign claims to have the city's best meatballs but, again, I'll stick with the pizza.	Bombacigno's, 558 W. Van Buren TASTE: PRESENTATION: AMBIENCE: Bombacigno's balls are tender, tastey and easy to eat. Served with a great marinara, there's no need for the sweet pepper I accidentally requested as a topping.
Fontano's, 20 E. Jackson St. TASTE: PRESENTATION: AMBIENCE: On my last visit the meatballs arrived at room temperature, rendering them almost tasteless. Thank goodness I pocketed the salt shaker from Tufano's.	Club Lago, 331 W. Superior St. TASTE: PRESENTATION: AMBIENCE: A panini-style sandwich that tastes great but lacks visual appeal. The side salad is a nice touch but I'd rather Lago emphasized the meat as much as the palette cleanser.	Haray Caray's, 33 W. Kinzie St. TASTE: PRESENTATION: AMBIENCE: Another cheesey, panini-style sub with sliced balls that I would rather avoid. I have no idea why the chef thinks pickles and meatballs go together.