grub vs. grub

For a long time I considered Philly cheesesteak sandwiches to be a delicacy, thinking, perhaps mistakenly, that Philadelphians cherished them as a defining part of the local cuisine. I'd sampled a few of them in Philly over the years and, overall, I thought the combination of sliced meat, onions and melted cheese was pretty tasty, perhaps just as unique and certainly just as filling as Chicago's Italian beef sandwich. It wasn't until I downed nine Philly steaks on consecutive days in Chicago that I came to my senses: They suck.

Certainly, cheesesteaks are more finessed in Philadelphia than in Chicago, where they typically appear on local menus as an afterthought. But why bother in either city? As these concoctions so aptly demonstrate, cooking thinly sliced beef on a griddle is a recipe for disaster. It works in certain Asian dishes but no other American fast-food is prepared that way. The griddle grotesquely browns every aspect of the meat and the additional chopping and cooking with onions (and sometimes green peppers and mushrooms) obliterates any chance for the steak to impart a tender, natural flavor. The cheese or Cheese Whiz that's mercifully added is the final reminder that the cooked meat in a Philly steak is largely inedible on its own.

Fortunately, not every Philuffian is inclined to put cheesesteaks on a pedestal. Many find alternatives like the roast pork with broccoli rabe to be the city's signature sandwich. I can't wait to give one a try back East. Meanwhile, here's how some of Chicago's more prominent Philly steaks fare in my book:

	Hoagie Hut, 2580 N. Lincoln Ave. TASTE: PRESENTATION: AMBIENCE: The only one of the bunch that uses crusty bread that's cut from a loaf, versus a pre-formed bun. It's not necessarily Philly-esque, but neither is the meat, which is surprisingly tender for a cheesesteak.	Steak Express, 201 N. Clark St. TASTE: PRESENTATION: AMBIENCE: NR The meat here is chopped while its raw, then chopped some more on the grill. Amusing to watch, painful to eat.	Eastern Style Pizza, 2911 W. Touhy TASTE: PRESENTATION: AMBIENCE: It's lauded as the finest Philly steak on the Far North Side and I don't doubt it. They've got the overcooking down to a science.
	Best Philly Stop, 1600 W. Lake St. TASTE: PRESENTATION: AMBIENCE: The Philly served in this part-time grocery store is so bathed in melted cheese that you can barely taste the meat, thank goodness.	The Works, 201 N. Clark St. TASTE: PRESENTATION: AMBIENCE: NR The Works' cheesesteak is really an Italian beef that's been griddled with onions and Swiss cheese. Neither sandwich works.	Philly's Best, 907 W Belmont Ave. TASTE: PRESENTATION: AMBIENCE: Considered the most authentic of Chicago's cheesesteak purveyors, I've never visited without wishing I'd wasted my money someplace else.
	Great Steak Co., 233 N. Michigan TASTE: PRESENTATION: AMBIENCE: Run by a national chain, this steak inexplicably includes lettuce and tomato. The added ingredients effectively distanced my tastebuds from the rest of the sandwich.	Steak & Fries, 100 W. Randolph TASTE: NR PRESENTATION: NR AMBIENCE: NR I'd describe this sandwich as dog food but I like dogs too much to drag them in to this.	Susie's Drive-In, 4126 W. Montrose TASTE: PRESENTATION: AMBIENCE: Susie's version includes all the typical condiments plus sour cream, mushrooms and sesame seeds on the bun. Enough already.